Lettres de Russie en 1839 (Letters from Russia), by Astolphe de Custine

This book is an account of the observations and thoughts of an astute 19th century French aristocrat during his trip to Russia. It is part travelogue, part the telling of anecdotes (historical and contemporary),and part an exposition of conclusions drawn by the author based on his observations (which are the most interesting part of the book).

Russia at the time was in the process of liberalization to bring itself closer culturally, politically, and economically to the rest of Europe, but the traces of its history under Mongol rule, feudalism and the absolute monarchy of the czars, were obvious and jarring to an observer not used to them.  These were the aspects of Russia Custine emphasized in his book.  This made the book understandably unwelcome particularly to more liberal-minded Russians who were trying to reform their country and improve its image abroad.  The book proved prophetic, however, when Russia fell back into her old habits after the Bolshevik takeover.

For a better grasp of the author's background, the audience for whom he wrote, and the book's place in history I recommend George F. Kennan's <i> The Marquis de Custine and His Russia in 1839</i> as a companion book.